Soak the Amaryllis for 6 hours. Don't oversoak the bulbs, or they may rot.
After 6 hours, dry the bulbs and trim off the roots just where they meet the bulb. You'll want a flat surface on the bottom of the bulb, so stand it up to make sure it stands straight. Take off as little of the actual bulb as possible.
Chop the paraffin wax into small pieces, which helps it melt quickly.
Melt the paraffin wax in a double boiler or something similar over low heat. It is easier to fully coat the bulbs if the container holding the wax is narrow rather than wide, which forces the wax to be deeper. See the warning about paraffin wax in the notes.
While the wax is melting, use aluminum foil and/or baking sheets to cover as much of your stove and counter as possible. You will be extra thankful you did this after you are done! I learned the hard way how messy it is to clean many little wax drops.
Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper. If you have a variety of bulbs, try to keep the tags attached to the green or place them on the parchment paper so you can keep track of which bulb is which.
While you want the wax to melt, you want to keep it from getting too hot. The ideal wax temperature for dipping the amaryllis bulbs is around 120℉ (48.9°C). I turned the stove off once the wax temperature reached 120℉ (48.9°C) and then would turn it back on once the wax seemed less smooth.
Hold the amaryllis bulbs by their neck or any green leaves and dip them in the wax. You want to walk a fine line between waxing it and overheating the bulb. I would quickly dip each bulb about 10 times and then let it cool down before dipping it again. Place the bulb cut side down on a piece of parchment paper between each set of 10 dippings. All told, I dipped each bulb approximately 70 times.
Once your bulbs are fully coated, set them aside to cool
You can add color to the waxed bulbs once they are cool with spray paint!
Tape any green leaves/stems with painter's tape to shield them from the paint. Use several light coats of paint so you don't get drips.