Seedling Knit Baby Sweater and Hat
Introducing our newest knit, the Seedling Knit Baby Sweater and Hat. This little raglan set knits up seamlessly from the top down, so there’s no seaming when you’re finished, just weave in a few ends and it’s ready to wear. We sized it for four stages, 0-3, 3-6, 6-9, and 9-12 months, so you can knit it once for a shower gift or make the next size up as your own little one grows.
The body is simple stockinette, broken up by a few rounds of a small textured stitch we’re calling the seed cluster, just enough visual interest to keep your hands moving without turning into a project you have to concentrate on. We knit ours in a washable, soft bamboo-cotton yarn and have provided other yarn suggestions for your perusal.
Between the sweater and the matching hat, this is a weekend-sized project once you get into the rhythm of the raglan increases, and it makes a sweet gift any recipient will be thrilled to receive. The full four-size pattern, with photos at every step, is below.
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Table of Contents
Materials Needed
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- 3mm (US 2/3) circular knitting needles, 40cm cable
- Approximately 340 (510, 675, 675) yards of DK weight yarn.
- Stitch markers (8 for the sweater yoke, 2 for each sleeve)
- Waste yarn for holding sleeve stitches
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
Yarn Suggestions
For this pattern, we used two strands of Jubilee Yarn Baby Soft Bamboo Cotton Super Fine (say that 10x fast!) held together. We loved this bamboo cotton yarn; the price was right, and it’s machine washable, which matters when you’re knitting for a baby. The only catch is that on its own, it’s a fine, almost fingering-weight strand, and knitting an entire sweater at that gauge would have taken a lot longer than we wanted. Holding two strands together solved that: same yarn we already liked, same price point, same easy care, just knit at roughly double the gauge so the project moves along at a reasonable pace.
Doubling is also just a useful trick to have in your back pocket beyond this pattern. It lets you combine two different yarns to get properties neither one has on its own, holding a strand of mohair with a strand of wool for extra halo, for instance, or pairing a plain cotton with a subtle metallic thread for texture without buying a specialty yarn. Once you know how to do it, you’re no longer limited to whatever weight a mill happens to spin.
A few practical notes when using two strands: keep tension even by winding both strands into a single ball ahead of time if you can, rather than pulling from two separate ones as you go. Watch that both strands are feeding at the same rate, since if one goes slack you’ll get uneven stitches. And when you join a new ball partway through, stagger the join points of the two strands a few stitches apart so you don’t end up with a noticeably thick spot in one place.
The two strands of this fingering-weight yarn held together are equivalent to a Sport/DK yarn, so that’s we based this pattern on. If you’d like to use the double strands of the Jubilee Yarn Baby Soft Bamboo Cotton Super Fine, you’ll need 2 (3, 4, 4) skeins.
Other Yarn Suggestions
Cascade Cherub DK, a nylon-acrylic blend, machine wash warm and tumble dry, no special handling needed. Runs about three to four dollars a ball, with roughly 180 yards per fifty grams, one of the more affordable picks on this list.
Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino, a merino-cashmere-acrylic blend, machine wash on a gentle cold cycle and lay flat to dry rather than tumble drying. It’s a splurge yarn, typically nine to eleven dollars a ball, with about 137 yards per fifty grams.
Sirdar Snuggly Baby Bamboo DK, a bamboo viscose and wool blend, similar in spirit to what we used, machine washable on a gentle 40-degree wool cycle, lay flat to dry. Around five to six dollars a ball, roughly 104 yards per fifty grams.
Rico Design Baby Classic DK, an acrylic-nylon blend, machine wash cold on gentle. Budget-friendly, typically four to five dollars a ball, about 165 yards per fifty grams.
Bernat Softee Baby Cotton, a cotton-acrylic blend, machine wash on delicate and tumble dry gentle. Widely available at craft stores, usually six to seven dollars for a 120 gram ball with 254 yards, a good option if you are looking for familiar big-box yarn.
NO MATTER WHAT YARN YOU CHOOSE, knitting a gauge swatch is vitally important to ensure your sweater is the size you wanted.

Gauge
20 sts × 27 rows = 3.5″ × 3.5″ after steam blocking,
Tip: Gauge is important for achieving the correct finished size. Work a swatch before casting on and adjust needle size as needed.
Finished Measurements
- To fit: 0–3 months, 3–6 months, 6–9 months, 9–12 months.
- Sweater: 8¼” (9¼”, 9½”, 9¾”) tall, 8½” (9″, 9¼”, 9½”) wide. Sleeves are 5″ (5½”, 6″, 6½”) from underarm to cuff.
- Hat: 6″ (6⅝”, 7¼”, 7¾”) wide, 4½” (4¾”, 5″, 5¼”) tall.

Abbreviations
- k — knit
- p — purl
- k1fb — knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase)
- k2tog — knit 2 stitches together (decrease)
- PM — place marker
- SM — slip marker
- BOR — beginning of round
- rnd(s) — round(s)
- st(s) — stitch(es)
- rep — repeat
Notes
- The sweater is worked seamlessly from the top down in the round.
- Raglan increases are worked every round until the yoke reaches 3 (3.25, 3.5, 3.5) inches.
- Sleeve stitches are held on waste yarn while the body is worked, then picked up and finished separately.
- The hat is worked separately, from the brim up to the crown.

Tips for Success
- Knit a gauge swatch and adjust your needle accordingly.
- Use a different colored marker for the beginning of the round versus the four raglan markers, it makes the increase rounds much faster to read at a glance.
- Keep an eye on tension where the two strands join at each new skein, that’s usually where unevenness sneaks in.
- Block the finished pieces before seaming in ends. It relaxes the seed cluster texture and makes the stitch definition pop.
Sweater Pattern
Neckband
Using the tubular cast-on method or your preferred stretchy cast-on, cast on 64 (68, 70, 70) stitches.
Tubular Setup Rows (worked flat)
- Row 1: *k1 through the back loop, bring yarn to the front, slip the next stitch purlwise, bring yarn to the back; rep from * to end.
- Row 2: Repeat Row 1. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches. Place a beginning-of-round marker at the center front.
- Work 1×1 ribbing until the neckband measures 1 inch.

Yoke Setup
Work 1 knit round, placing markers as follows: k11 (12, 12, 12), PM1, k1, PM2, k8 (8, 9, 9), PM3, k1, PM4, k22 (24, 24, 24), PM5, k1, PM6, k8 (8, 9, 9), PM7, k1, PM8, k11 (12, 12, 12).
Raglan Increases
Increase every round as follows:
- Knit to 1 stitch before PM1, k1fb, slip marker, k1, slip marker, k1fb.
- Repeat at each raglan section.
- Continue working increase rounds until the piece measures 3 (3.25, 3.5, 3.5) inches from the cast-on edge.
Stitch Count
208 (228, 238, 238) stitches total.
- Front: 58 (64, 66, 66) sts
- Back: 58 (64, 66, 66) sts
- Sleeves: 44 (48, 51, 51) sts each
- Raglan stitches: 4
Sleeve Separation
Beginning at the center front marker:
- Knit 29 (32, 33, 33) stitches to the first sleeve.
- Place the next 47 (51, 54, 54) stitches on waste yarn for the sleeve.
- Cast on 1 stitch using the backward loop cast-on.
- Knit 57 (63, 65, 65) stitches across the back.
- Place the next 47 (51, 54, 54) stitches on waste yarn for the second sleeve.
- Cast on 1 stitch using the backward loop cast-on.
- Knit the remaining 28 (31, 32, 32) stitches to the beginning of the round. The raglan stitches become part of the sleeves. Body stitch count: 116 (128, 132, 132) stitches.
Body
- Work the body in stockinette until the piece measures 5 (5.5, 5.75, 6) inches from the cast-on edge (approximately 16 (18, 18, 19) rounds).
- Work 3 additional rounds in stockinette.
Seed Cluster Pattern
- Round 1: *k1, p1, k1, k1; rep from * around.
- Round 2: *p1, k1, p1, k1; rep from * around.
- Round 3: *k1, p1, k1, k1; rep from * around. Work 3 rounds in stockinette.
Seed Stitch Band
- Round 1: *k1, p1; rep from * around.
- Round 2: *p1, k1; rep from * around.
- Repeat Rounds 1–2 four more times for a total of 6 rounds.
- Work 4 rounds in stockinette.
Repeat Seed Cluster Pattern
Work the 3-round Seed Cluster Pattern once more, then work 3 rounds in stockinette.
Hem
- Work 1×1 ribbing for 8 rounds, or until the ribbing measures 1 inch.
- Bind off using a standard bind-off.
Sleeves
- Place the 47 (51, 54, 54) held sleeve stitches back onto your needles.
- Place SM1 on the right needle.
- Join the yarn by picking up 4 stitches evenly across the underarm.
- Place SM2 after the picked-up stitches. 51 (55, 58, 58) stitches total.
- Rounds 1–3: Knit all stitches.
- Round 4 (Decrease): Knit to SM1, pass marker, k2tog twice, pass SM2, knit to the end of the round. 49 (53, 56, 56) stitches total.
- Round 5: Knit all stitches.
- Round 6 (Decrease): Knit to SM1, pass marker, k2tog, pass SM2, knit to the end of the round. 48 (52, 55, 55) stitches total.
- Round 7: Knit all stitches.
- Round 8 (Decrease): Knit to 1 stitch before SM1. Remove SM1 and knit the last stitch before the marker together with the stitch between the markers (k2tog). Continue knitting to SM2. 47 (51, 54, 54) stitches total.
- Round 9: Knit all stitches.
- Round 10 (Decrease): Knit to 2 stitches before SM2, k2tog, pass SM2, knit to the end of the round. 46 (50, 53, 53) stitches total.
- Rounds 11–12 (6–9 and 9–12 months only):
- Round 11: knit all stitches.
- Round 12 (Decrease): knit to 2 stitches before SM2, k2tog, pass SM2, knit to the end of the round. 52 stitches total.
- Continue working in stockinette until the sleeve measures 3 (3.25, 3.5, 4) inches from the underarm.

Sleeve Decorative Band
- Work 6 rounds in seed stitch.
- Work 8 rounds in stockinette.
Cuff
- Work 1×1 ribbing for 4 rounds, or until the cuff measures approximately ½ inch.
- Bind off using a standard bind-off.
Repeat for the second sleeve.

Finishing
- Weave in all ends.
- Steam block to finished measurements.

Baby Hat
Sized for 0–3 (3–6, 6–9, 9–12) Months.
- Cast on 88 (96, 104, 112) stitches and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Brim
- Work 1×1 ribbing for 6 (6, 6, 8) rounds.

Hat Body
- Work 4 (4, 4, 5) rounds in stockinette.
Seed Stitch Band
- Round 1: *k1, p1; rep from * around.
- Round 2: *p1, k1; rep from * around.
- Round 3: Repeat Round 1.
- Work 4 rounds in stockinette.
Repeat Seed Stitch Band
- Round 1: *k1, p1; rep from * around.
- Round 2: *p1, k1; rep from * around.
- Round 3: Repeat Round 1. Work 8 (8, 8, 10) rounds in stockinette.
- The hat should now measure approximately 3 (3.25, 3.25, 3.5) inches from the cast-on edge.

Crown Decreases
- Round 1 (Decrease): *k6, k2tog; rep from * around. 77 (84, 91, 98) stitches.
- Round 2: Knit all stitches.
- Round 3 (Decrease): *k5, k2tog; rep from * around. 66 (72, 78, 84) stitches.
- Round 4: Knit all stitches.
- Round 5 (Decrease): *k4, k2tog; rep from * around. 55 (60, 65, 70) stitches.
- Round 6: Knit all stitches.
- Round 7 (Decrease): *k3, k2tog; rep from * around. 44 (48, 52, 56) stitches.
- Round 8: Knit all stitches.
- Round 9 (Decrease): *k2, k2tog; rep from * around. 33 (36, 39, 42) stitches.
- Round 10: Knit all stitches.
- Round 11 (Decrease): *k1, k2tog; rep from * around. 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches.
- Round 12: Knit all stitches.
- Round 13 (Decrease): *k2tog; rep from * around. 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches. Cut the yarn, leaving an 8-inch tail.
- Thread the tail through the remaining 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches, pull tight to close the crown, and weave in the end.
Finishing
Weave in all ends. Block to finished measurements.

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